G. BRP M62 Supercharger Install
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We started installing the supercharger on 07/30/2016.
First I removed the intake and fuel rail while Matt removed the exhaust shield and installed the supercharger mounting studs in the head.
I removed the coil wiring from the engine wiring harness that attaches to the fuel rail.
This is the part we removed.
The harness is ready to be reinstalled.
We removed the power steering belt adjuster and steel hose support. Then we moved the hose toward the fender to make room for the supercharger belt.
Matt also installed new kevlar accessory belts.
Matt installed the supercharger mount but found the front bolt extension had to be removed to get the bracket to slide past the power steering pump.
The bracket installed and ready for more parts.
Now I began releasing the throttle position sensor wires and the idle air control wires from the wiring harness that runs from the firewall to the front of the engine.
First I plugged the connectors back onto the throttle body to be sure I had the correct wires.
The tape was removed from the wire loom so it could be removed.
The TPS wires had to be cut to remove them from the harness. But the IAC wires came out easily.
The wires were soldered and covered with weather proof heat shrink.
Meanwhile, Matt was gathering the parts to install the new intake manifold.
The manifold is in two parts so each is mounted on in order.
Before the second section was installed, we replaced the water hose that used to go from the front of the engine through the throttle body and then to the oil filter cooler. Matt had some silicone tubing just for this.
Now the second section of the intake was installed.
The next major task was to get the EGR tube to mount to the new EGR setup on the new intake manifold. It did not fit right at first. I put the tube on temporarily to see where it needed bending.
The EGR side needed more length. By bending the tube down toward the intake then bending the tube toward the fender, we were able to make it fit. I used an old male flare connector mounted in a vise to hold one end of the tube while I bent it.
It took two attempts to get the bends just right.
We used thread sealer on all the fittings except the flare fittings.
Now I could tell the wires to the EGR had to be removed from the main harness too. Also, the IAC wire had to be pulled all the way back to the firewall and run with the TPS wires to the other side of the engine.
So, I opened the harness again and gained the slack needed for all of them. Hopefully, the harness if finished now!
Fuel line was used to attach the vacuum lead to the brake booster and the PCV valve.
Matt worked on making the old heat shield fit with the supercharger bracket in place. We may not be able to leave it on, but wanted all the heat shielding we can get.
Matt started attaching parts to the supercharger body. When he got to the IAC, he found an issue. There was a flow control valve but it would not thread into the aluminum block that was machined to attach the IAC to the supercharger.
We think that this was a mfg. flaw, but were not sure. So, we posted a thread to see if anyone on Miata.net knows why the valve is used and how it is to be installed.
We may need a machine shop to cut the threads so we can mount the valve.
Hopefully, by tomorrow we will have an answer!
We did not go to a rallycross on 07/31/2016 so we could work on the supercharger installation. Now we have missed two rallycrosses. That is not like us to miss races, especially a rallycross!
Also we still had no answer on the flow control vavle. We will have to decide on our own what to do with it.
Matt started the morning putting parts onto the blower.
Then we found that the heat shield Matt had modified needed more trimming to allow a brace to be installed on the front bottom bolt of the header.
Matt started working on the fuel rail. He installed the new Flow Force 640 cc injectors and pigtails.
The front part of the mount had a hole that aligned with the head, but there was no mention of using it in the instructions. I made a small aluminum spacer on my mini-lathe to fill the space between the bracket and the head.
While Matt was still working on the injectors, I tried to fit the TDR heat shield. It was not fitting between the heater hose under and beside the header. We thought about cutting the blanket, but did not feel that was a good solution.
Matt suggested folding it at the slit near the top. This gave the relief needed to let the blanket fit as well as it could.
Matt wanted to test fit the blower and flex pipe to be sure the blanket and OEM heat shield did not interfere.
We could not get the blower down low enought to insert the two bottom bolts into the mount. So, Matt took the TDR label off since it had some pop riviets holding it on while I used a block of wood to lightly indent the OEM shield. Now we had room to make the blower fit properly.
We used the stainless steel wire that came with the blanket to tie it onto the header.
Matt continued to work on final mounting of parts onto the blower. All the bolts were installed with blue Loctite.
Next we reinstalled the blower and aligned the pulleys with an aluminum straight edge.
The auto tensioner was installed.
The belt that came with the kit was about 1.5" too short. We were able to get a longer one at the local Autozone, but it too was short. The did not have a 46.5" belt in stock so we put it on a list for things to get a Summit Racing later in the day.
We swapped position of the ignition connector on the front of the engine to allow a little more slack. We found that the keeper that attaches the connectors to the metal plate had to be swapped also since one is slotted horizontally and the other vertically. A small screw driver helped us accomplish the task.
Next we routed the wires over the fuel rail and added the mount to the main harness at the rear of the valve cover.
We decided to go ahead and install the flow control valve. To do that we would have to find a tap. At lunch Matt found one online at Summit Racing.
We stopped work to go to Summit Racing during the hot part of the day. Matt bought a 3/4"-16 tap so we could tap the IAC mount for the flow control valve. He also got a 46.5" belt and several other parts we needed. We did accomplish a few more tasks later in the afternoon.
Since we now had a tap. we worked on tapping the IAC mount. We put the block into a vise on the drill press and mounted the tap in the drill chuck. While Matt applied a small amount of downward pressure, I turned the chuck by hand back and forth to start the tap. We wanted to be sure it was perpendicular to the hole. Once the tap was started sufficently, Matt applied some light oil and finished cutting the threads with the vise mounted to a welding table and a ratchet to turn the tap.
Matt then installed plugs into the holes not used. All pipe threads were seled with sealant. The flow control valve seals with an O ring so no sealant was added.
This vacuum valve used to attach to the manifold. We mounted it and plugged it back into the wiring harness. We are not sure that had to be done but wanted to avoid CEL codes if possible.
Matt installed a vacuum check valve on the brake booster line. He does not want boost pressure on the brake booster.
It was getting late so we quit for the day. Finishing will have to wait until next weekend!
I try to accomplish a few tasks during the week, but Matt has to work. I hate when work gets in the way fo play!
On 08/01/2016 I worked on several tasks solo.
I had been working on mounting the throttle cable late yesterday evening but had dropped a nut and lock washer onto the subframe and could only find the nut. When I started this morning it took me 30 minutes to find the lock washer. I had to raise the lift all the way to find it with a magnet. I hade self-inflicted wasted time!
I could not get the small throttle cable bracket supplied in the kit to align the cable with the slot in the throttle body. When the throttle returned, the cable would come out of the slot and not let the throttle return to idle position.
I made my own bracket a little longer to allow it to properly align the cable. However, when installed with the supplied spacer, the cable did not have enough adjustment to allow a small amount of slack to ensure the throttle would return to idle position. Also, I did not like that the bracket could slip out of position without warning. There was no keeper on the supplied bracket to prevent it from slipping.
So, I made another bracket. I put a bend in it to allow cable some slack and a keeper to hold the bracket in position. It took about two hours of test fitting, cutting and bending to finally get it right.
The tab should keep the bracket in position as long as the bolt is still in the hole.
The throttle return spring on the 70 mm throttle body was weak. The pedal felt mushy and difficult to hold steady. A small spring in a kit from Autozone was used to assist the throttle return.
A 3/32" hole was drilled in the throttle stop for the spring.
The other end was attached to a stainless steel screw held in place with a backing nut.
The IAC mount came with studs and lock nuts to attach it. Not very tidy looking. Measurements showed a 6 x 55 mm bolt was the correct length. Again blue Loctite was used on the mounting bolts.
Notice the brass fittings on the side of the mount. The hole is threaded with straight pipe thread and should accept a 3/8 NPT fitting. But, the NPT fitting would only go into the threads about three threads. That is not very secure. A search at the local True Value Hardware produced a flare fitting on one side with an NPT fitting on the other. I put a small thin O ring onto the fitting and some thread sealer too. It seems to be a good tight fit. Then a 3/8" elbow was attached.
When the flexible intake tubing was test fitted, it had some clearance problems. It was rubbing the brake valves and bracket, almost touching the shock tower wall and prevented use of the brass elbow I had just installed.
The AFM and air filter fit after the three relays we remounted were adjusted.
I began addressing the fitment issues by removing the bracket that held the brake valves and bending the protruding end closer to where the valves mount. Then I slotted the bolt holes to allow the bracket to move toward the fender.
A little tugging on the brake valves helped them move about 1/4" towar the fender. Then the bracket was reinstalled. It is still very close, but there is a small amount of room between the flex tubing and the brake valves.
The brass elbow was swapped with a straight nipple. The vacuum hose will have to loop under and over the intake tube.
It took all day to sort these things out and make a parts run.
Quitting time again!
On 08/02/2016 I finished a couple more tasks.
First I installed the Walbro 255 lph fuel pump. It was fairly easy since I had removed several fuel pumps in the past.
The rear deck carpet had to be folded back and the rear deck plate cover removed.
I disconnected the electrical connector.
There was a lot of dirt on and around the pump cover. I used a small steel brush to loosen it and then blew it off with air. No need to contaminate the tank with dirt.
I used two quick connector removal tools at the same time. With one tool, the bend in the steel fuel lines blocked access to slide the tool into the connectors.
The pump cover screws were removed and the pump was carefully lifted out.
The new parts with instructions and the old pump.
The old pump was removed by sliding the rubber hose clamps up and disconnecting the feed wires at the pump cover.
Test fit of the new pump since it is longer. It fits, but just barely. The new pump has a different style connector. The new pigtail is crimped onto the OEM connector that goes to the pump cover.
I cut the new rubber hose in half and installed the pump and filter.
All together and ready to install.
It went back in very easily.
Everything was back together when I found a small washer looking thing in the plastic bag. It was a keeper for the filter. So as many times, I had to remove the pump and put it on the bottom of the pump. The filter would probably been OK anyway, but why not do it right? Good thing was it only took 20 minutes to fix the error!
Next I focused on finishing the breather tubes. The straight nipple I had was only 3/8" but the exit fitting on the breather tube was 1/2". I stopped by the hardware store for a 1/2" straight nipple to fit. I also picked up some 1/2" fuel line.
The BRP coupler now could be installed. Some 3/8" fuel line was attached to the valve cover from the coupler.
The final part was a rubber coupler to attach the AFM and air filter.
The air filter is a K&N RU-0910. It fits directly onto the AFM.
Time is up for today. It is way too hot again!
On 08/03/2016 I did not get much time to work on the car. I did fix a couple things that I noticed as I walked by the car.
The wires to the AFM and air temperature sensor needed routing. I passed them just under and between the front of the supercharger and the engine block. It took some long needle nosed pliers to attach the connector to the power steering pump.
I modified a bracket from the old intake and used it to support the harness under the supercharger.
While I was working on that, I noticed the new supercharger belt was very close to the hard pipe on the power steering pump.
We had moved it as suggested in the installation instructions, but obviously not enough. So, I moved it some more.
That should work!
I managed to complete a few more tasks on 08/04/2016.
I also mounted the air temperature sensor (IAT) in the end of the K&N filter. The desired hole needed to be just under 1/2".
I had a punch set with an 11 mm punch. It made a perfect hole for inserting the IAT.
I reinstalled the filter and plugged in the IAT.
Now I think all the wiring is complete.
The intercooler kit came with some polished tubes to connect everything. It included silicone couplers and nice stainless clamps to install everything.
There were two 2-1/2" and two 2-1/4" couplers. The larger ones fit the blower exit and the intake tube. The smaller ones fit the intercooler attachments.
I removed the radiator top shroud for access.
I noticed the top radiator hose clamps were way too long. So, I marked them and trimmed them.
A test fit of the blower to intercooler tube revealed that the upper radiator support was rubbing the tube.
A small adjustable wrench was used to make some clearance by bending instead of cutting the sheet metal.
All the couplers had to be loose to allow enough wiggle room to fit the hard tube.
A quick check of shroud clearance before cinching the clamps.
The clamps were positioned to allow access with small ratchet and 10 mm socket.
Same process for the intake side.
The finished product.
Matt just sent me a note that more gauges are coming. I guess we are not yet done?
The other day I installed a plug where the flow control valve was so we would not have to worry about it having any effect on the engine.
However, I met a new friend Bernie Johnson on Miata.net who called me and gave me much needed information about this valve and some other things that needed to be addressed. He has run an M62 supercharger with a BRP manifold for about 10 years. This is what he told me.
First the flow control valve needs to be used with the IAC system. It allows a finer and hopefully smoother adjustment of the idle. So, I put it back into the IAC block.
I took this picture so I could remember what tools are used to install it and to adjust it later.
Bernie also showed me pictures of how he had relocated the IAC block twice to be closer to the intake. The second move he attached the block directly to the intake. He said it gave him better idle control. We will make that move if we cannot get the idle under control.
Bernie also noticed we had the boost control valve actuator plumbed to the supercharger outlet. He had accessed the vacuum from the intake manifold and installed a check valve in the line to keep boost off the diaphram in the boost control valve actuator. We are making that change also.
This is how it was and it matched the BRP instructions we had been using.
This is the route we will use. Now we need to find a check valve.
Thanks for the information and suggestions Bernie!
The fuel pressure gauge Matt ordered from maperformance.com will not be here by tomorrow as promised when he ordered them. Not sure we will order any more from there. We really wanted that gauge in place when we start the engine up.
We will install a mechanical gauge in the engine bay to verify fuel pressure.
Matt will be here in the morning early and we will try to finish up the install and ...
START OUR ENGINE!
Subpages (6):A. BRP M62 Hotside Kit B. Supercharger Parts List C. Supercharger Engine Build D. BRP Intercooler Kit Install E. Supercharger Gauge Set Intall F. Supercharger New Engine Start Up H. AEM FIC Tuning for M62 Supercharger I. Engine Start with M62 Supercharger