C. Supercharger Engine Build

Chastain Race Engines in Jonesboro, GA rebuilt the head. It really took them a long time to finish the head. Probably about 3 months. But Matt likes the work they do. He had them install high flow valves, heavy springs, new titanium keepers.

Matt took an old block we removed from of his car due to oil consumption and had it built and balanced at Automotive Precision Machinery, Inc. in Forest Park, GA. They got it the first part of May and had it ready about four weeks later.

He sent them the most of the new internals including, pistons, rods and ARP main bearing studs. They sourced the special ACL "race" rod and crank bearings.

Matt had them clean, bore, assemble and balance the rotating assembly.

With the block back from the shop, we can pull the engine out of the car and built a race engine!

Matt had already purchased many new engine parts from Mazdaspeed and other vendors. He bought new gaskets, silicon hoses, coil over plugs and other goodies for the new engine.

We had planned to start assembling the new engine on July 10th, but had to wait. We were still waiting on the Boundary oil pump from FAB9 Tuning even though it was ordered three weeks earlier and was promised by that date. So we had to let the engine assembly go until the next weekend. The pump did not arrive until July 15th...a full month after it was ordered! Keep that in mind if you decide to order from FAB9 Tuning.

We spent the early morning of July 10th removing the engine avoid the afternoon heat. It is middle July and afternoon temps get above 90 degrees every day here in middle Georgia.

It took us only three hours to get the engine and transmission out of the car.

Then we separated the parts starting with the transmission, then the head, etc.

We were ready to start installing parts and would have, if we had the oil pump. But, it did not arrive as expected.

On July 16th the oil pump had finally arrived and were ready to start installing parts to the new block. We took our time installing each part and made sure to use the correct bolt torque for each part.

The head was installed with the block at an angle so we could be sure it did not drip any fluids onto the new head gasket.

We followed a video on YouTube that details how to install the oil pump and oil pan. Each step was done as shown in the video including cleaning all the bolts and bolt holes before assembly. We wanted to get that right the first time to be sure there are no oil leaks later.

There was an oil leak on the head at the cam seals even though they were only a few months old. So we replaced them.

Sure enough there was a small burr on the intake cam side that had cut the rubber on the outside of the seal.

We very carefully cleaned off the burr and installed new seals with our Flyin Miata seal tool.

Next we moved to the front of the engine and installed the water pump.

We finally figured out how the rubber panel seal sits on top of the pump.

Then we installed the timing gears and belt. We had marked the old belt so we used it to mark the new one.

Then it was just a matter of installing the tensioners and rotating the engine per the instructions to be sure everything was aligned and the belt was tight.

Then we installed the front engine covers and the water pump pulley.

Matt had taken a valve cover we had on the shelf and painted it with special paint designed for brake calipers to match the car color. He also added some bling with stainless fasteners.

Now we moved to the intake side of the engine and installed the alternator, oil filter sandwich plate, oil pressure sending unit, oil temperature sending unit and the intake. See the page below Supercharger Gauge Set Installation for the wiring to the sending units.

Next was the rear of the engine. So we moved the engine back onto the engine lift for access.

The transmission got a good cleaning before we installed it.

First we installed the rear main seal with our Flyin Miata seal tool.

Then the engine to transmission plate which is easy to install with only one bolt, but is very important to install before the flywheel. Ask me how I know.

We installed the flywheel twice anyway. The first time, someone forgot to press in the pilot bearing. Ugh! But it was easily removed and reinstalled correctly. We used thread sealant on the bolts. If you don't oil can leak out past the bolt threads.

Notice the flywheel had been ground. Flyin Miata says to do that in their clutch instructions so we followed the instructions. We used the one I keep on the shelf ready to go so I will have to get the old one ground.

Now we were ready to install the Flyin Miata stage 1 clutch. The instructions don't say, but the raised side of the clutch disc goes away from the engine. Then we carefully torqued the bolts per the instructions.

The transmission slipped back onto the engine without issue.

Now the engine was ready to be installed in the car. But it was lunchtime and we decided to do that after we ate!

Now that we were full and our siesta was over, we installed the engine back into the car.

Notice how close the monster 150 mm nose pulley is to the sway bar. It barely fit. We would not have gotten it on with the engine bolted in.

We have installed Miata engines so many times in the past, it does not take very long to get it bolted in. Notice the bumper cover has been removed. Matt is cleaning the headlights and we want to install the intercooler next.

We will finish up with the engine install tomorrow. I am tired!

Subpages (6): A. BRP M62 Hotside Kit B. Supercharger Parts List D. BRP Intercooler Kit Install E. Supercharger Gauge Set Intall F. Supercharger New Engine Start Up G. BRP M62 Supercharger Install H. AEM FIC Tuning for M62 Supercharger I. Engine Start with M62 Supercharger